“Hardware” in mountaineering includes a variety of equipment necessary for organizing belay points, stations and aids. Without it, climbing rock and ice routes would be impossible. A thoughtful choice of equipment depending on the conditions of the upcoming ascent is a feasible step towards your safety in the mountains.

The numerous assortment of so-called iron in mountaineering can be divided into three groups:

1. “Iron” for organizing belay on rocky and ice terrain (hooks, anchors, ice drills);
2. Personal equipment (rappel and belay devices, clamps, carabiners, prusiks, etc.);
3. Specific “hardware” for aid and artificial support points (rock and ice fifes, sky hooks, hook feet, etc.).

In this article, we look at equipment for organizing belay on rocky and ice terrain.

Equipment for belaying on rocky terrain

“Iron” intended for organizing belay on rocks can generally be divided into two groups:

1. The one in the crack gets clogged. Numerous types of rock hooks: petal hooks, channels, anchors, etc.
2. The one in the crack is laid. Embedded elements with unchanging (bookmarks) or changing geometry (camalots and friends).

A set of hooks and carabiners, model 1960. Photo: Tom Frost — One cup of tea, detail (1960).

In general, a rock hook is a metal plate that is driven into suitable cracks along the route and provides insurance. Each hook has a special eye for snapping into the carabiner. Most rock pitons today are made of steel; elements made of titanium or aluminum alloys are less common.

Models of hooks differ from each other in shape, size, material of manufacture, and, accordingly, in load level and area of ​​application. Since the cracks have different shapes and the rocks consist of different rocks, manufacturers offer the widest selection of rock pitons for all occasions of climbing life. Various shapes are designed so that the tool can be easily driven into the crack, easily removed from it and firmly wedged inside.

Scope of application of rock pitons

The scope of application of European or American-made rock pitons (by the way, in English a hook is called a piton) will be clarified by the markings applied to the equipment. In addition to the CE or UIAA marks, which confirm that the product is certified, you can find P or S markings on imported rock hooks:

• Mark P (“progression”) means that the hook is designed for movement on the route and is not designed to hold in the event of a fall.
• The S (“safety”) marking indicates that the hook is suitable for organizing a belay point and will withstand the load in the event of a possible fall.

In practice, most elements - in addition to specific equipment for aid and support - are used both for movement and for organizing insurance.

Russian manufacturers do not use these classifications and corresponding markings at this stage. However, the scope of application of hooks (only aided support or insurance organization) is always indicated by our manufacturers in the product descriptions on websites and in catalogs.

Types of rock pitons

From left to right: anchor hook (anchor), profiled V-shaped rock hook, two petal (flat) rock hooks and two multi-eye channels.

Flat (petal) rock pitons

A classic shape long used in mountaineering. Suitable for narrow crevices in limestone and granite rocks. Flat hooks are divided into horizontal, vertical and universal - for use in different cracks, vertical, horizontal or oblique.

Channel rock hooks (channel)

Channel hooks are wide, often with several eyes, which allows them to be driven to different depths. Suitable for wide cracks. Classic channel pitons were made of titanium and were common in Soviet mountaineering, but are less common today.

Profile rock pitons

Profile hooks are specially curved, for example, V-shaped or U-shaped (in fact, this is an advanced version of the classic channel). This configuration allows the hook to be easily hammered in and wedged tightly into the crevice, as well as loosened for removal. These hooks, unlike flat ones, are designed for wider and expanding cracks in hard rocks. Profile hooks are made from steel alloys and can be softer or harder.

Anchor rock hooks (anchors)

With the advent of anchor hooks, classic petal, profile and channel models fade into the background. Various variations of anchors are designed to organize belay points, both at the station and at the aid station, and their relatively low weight allows you to take a full set of elements of different sizes for the ascent. The anchors are made of high-strength spring steel, due to which they can withstand dynamic loads well.

Working with an anchor hook on rocky terrain: try it on - hammer it in.

In appearance, anchors are strikingly different from other rock hooks and are more like the beak of an ice tool. Due to this specific geometry, the load on the anchor, correctly driven into the vertical crack, goes towards the depth of the crack, and not down, and as the load increases, such a hook is only driven deeper into the crack. The leg of the anchor hook should rest against the terrain, and not hang in the air: then, if driven correctly, the anchor has no chance of breaking out. The top eye is not a weight eye, it serves to pull the hook out of the crack and hang it on your belay system.

Anchor hooks are designed primarily for vertical cracks; manufacturers recommend using them in cracks with a deviation from the vertical of up to 30 degrees. It is appropriate to adapt the anchor to a horizontal slot only in the case of aided support.

Anchors differ in size and configuration. You can find anchor hooks with a bent eye, various bends of the “head”, a specially sharpened beak or with notches. The latter are designed for ice terrain and mixed terrain, as well as for working with soft rocks.

Today, anchor hooks are more popular in Russia than in Europe or America. But what can we hide, this is the real “secret weapon” of Russian climbers :)

Hooks in the bottom row:

Embedded elements

Embedding elements, unlike hooks, do not need to be driven into rock cracks: due to their design, they are inserted into the crack without driving in and wedged inside, providing insurance.

The creation of special metal bookmarks for mountaineering began to be deliberately worked on in the mid-1950s. This was largely dictated by the need to supplement the climbing set with classic rock pitons, which were not enough to successfully complete the routes. Working with bookmarks requires less time, and the variety of shapes makes these elements universal.

The March cover of Summit magazine in 1973 featured a cartoon of the bookmark winning a grappling hook match in front of the cheering summit. Photo from photobucket.com.

Types of bookmarks in mountaineering: stoppers, hexes, eccentrics

Bookmarks sometimes differ significantly from each other in appearance, but their operating principle is the same: the load is held by wedging the bookmark inside narrowing cracks.

Bookmarks, as a rule, hold the load in only one direction - downward, and when moving upward they are removed from the crack. After placing the filler in the crack, it is necessary to check the reliability of fastening with a sharp jerk in different directions. It is necessary to install the fill in the crack in such a way that as much of its surface area as possible comes into contact with the rocky terrain. To remove the filler from a crack, you may need additional equipment in the form of a special extractor.

When it comes to size, manufacturers offer a wide selection of inserts: from “seeds” that are only suitable for aid equipment, to elements the size of half a helmet.

As for the various names of the bookmarks (stoppers, hexes, eccentrics, etc.), they reflect only the specifics of the form or simply the wishes of the manufacturer - the general operating principle of all these elements is the same and is described above.

Some variations of bookmarks: classic stoppers, microstoppers, hexes and eccentrics.

Stoppers

The classic, time-tested and most common trapezoidal bookmark. Small size stoppers are usually solid, medium and large size stoppers are usually hollow. There are variations of stopper bookmarks with straight and curved edges, sharp and rounded corners, with a corrugated and smooth surface. Stoppers are made mainly of aluminum, cables are made of steel.

"Seeds" or microstoppers (Micro Stoppers)

The smallest size stoppers designed for the finest cracks. They have a trapezoidal shape, like regular stoppers. The smallest stoppers are intended for aid use only and are not suitable for belaying. The manufacturer's instructions will help you understand the scope of use of the equipment; do not neglect it.

Hexes (Hex, in the Black Diamond collection - Hexentrics)

Unlike stoppers, hexes have six straight or curved edges, which is why they got their name. This shape increases reliability and expands the range of application of the fill, since it allows it to be installed in a crack in several ways, which makes hexes very popular. Suitable for wider cracks.

Eccentrics (Tricams, tricams)

They can be used as regular bookmarks or work on the principle of cam devices: when the rope is tensioned, the eccentrics rotate around an axis, firmly wedged in the crack. They have a pyramid shape ( see photo above). Tricams are ideal for horizontal cracks, pockets and vertical blind cracks. Convenient for use on ice terrain thanks to the sharp nose.

Even though the bookmarks weigh less and are cheaper, the friends and camalots are more versatile due to their variable geometry. They are quick to install and remove and do not need to be hammered or jammed. In addition, these elements work even in expanding cracks.

This short video from Wild Country clearly demonstrates the work of a friend when a climber is dislodged.

History of the invention of friends

American rock climber Ray Jardine, by the way, a former NASA engineer, invented the friends and developed the first functioning prototype in 1973. Jardine actively improved his invention and, with the help of friends, climbed routes in Yosemite National Park that other climbers had not even looked at.

At a certain point, Ray settled on the type of friend familiar to us today: two pairs of spring-loaded cams located on the same axis. In 1977, American climber and entrepreneur Mark Valance bought a patent for friends from Ray and founded the Wild Country company, which successfully produces equipment to this day.

By the way, friend or friend means nothing more than “friend”. Ray Jardine’s unique equipment was once called “friends” by his partner, simply not knowing how else to explain what it was about. Ray liked it, and since 1975 the invention began to be officially called Friends.

(1) Ray Jardine makes the first ascent of Yosemite's Phoenix Route with the help of friends in 1977. (2) Ray Jardine's original first friend. Photo: Wild Country Collection.

Friend vs Camalots

People involved in mountaineering and rock climbing invariably associate Kamalot with the Black Diamond brand. The name is a registered trademark of this American company, although today Camalots, like Friends, have ceased to be a proper name and are produced by different brands. Kamalot is a derivative of the Friend model, which differs from it in the number of axes. Initially, the Friends had cams located on one axis, while the Black Diamond Camalot had two cams. Due to this, camelots have a wider range of overlap.

Today, the most popular inserts are those with four jaws; smaller sizes are often available with three jaws. The size range of friends and camalots is very large: they are designed for cracks from 7-10 mm to 20 cm and even larger sizes.

When working with friends and camalots, you cannot leave them in the crack in extreme positions, that is, completely open or completely folded. A fully folded kamalot or friend can simply not be pulled out and given to the mountains forever, but a fully or almost completely opened one can escape from the crack due to insufficient contact area with the relief.

Numbers 5, 4, 3, 0.75, 0.5, 0.4, 0.3

Numbers 0, 0.5, 1.5, 0.75, 1, 3, 4

Equipment cheat sheet for organizing belay on rocky terrain

The most common variations of rock hooks and embedded elements:

1. Get stuck in cracks
   1. Rock hook
      1. Flat (petal, petal)
      2. Profile (U-shaped, V-shaped)
      3. Channel
      4. Anchor hook
2. Placed in cracks
   1. With unchanging geometry - bookmarks
      1. Stoppers
      2. Microstoppers
      3. Eccentric
      4. Hexa (hexagon)
   2. With changing geometry - camelots and friends
      1. Friend (cams are located on the same axis)
      2. Kamalot (cams located on two axes)

Photo: Keith Ladzinski for Black Diamond S14.

Equipment for organizing belay on ice terrain

The main element for organizing belay points and stations on ice terrain is an ice drill - a metal rod that is hollow inside with an external thread and an eye for a carabiner.

Different models of climbing ice drills differ slightly from each other. For example, some have a turbine - a special handle for twisting - some do not. The main difference between ice screws is the length. The size range starts from 6-7 cm and reaches 21-22 cm, the dimensional step is usually 3-4 cm. Smaller ice screws are suitable for mixed ice (sinter ice), longer ones - for organizing launching eyes (Abalakov loop) and self-twisted.

PS

When choosing hardware, be guided primarily by the descriptions of the routes you are going to go on and the reviews of rock climbers and mountaineers who have already visited these routes. In order not to burden yourself with unnecessary things, not to drag several kilograms of unnecessary equipment into the mountains, but at the same time not to forget what is really necessary, you should clearly understand what kind of terrain and in what conditions you will have to work. A universal formula for hooks, hooks and hooks, as a rule, does not work.

Our article is of a review and informational nature and does not exhaust the variety of modern equipment for organizing insurance on rocky and ice terrain. Choose reliable, high-quality equipment and use it for its intended purpose, do not neglect the manufacturer’s instructions and the advice of those who have already walked your route. See you in the mountains

There are many controversial statements about aspects of the use of anchor hooks. Since Denis did not like my comments on his article, and he deported me to “ignore” without condescending to explain, I have to write a separate article.

Some of Denis’s statements are incorrect and are a manipulation of facts and figures. So, at the beginning of the article he compares the reliability of conventional rock pitons and anchors. At the same time, according to the fair remark of Sergei Nadtochy (terrorist), for anchors he takes the test results of “the mechanical strength of anchors”, and not “the load-bearing capacity of the anchor as an “insurance element””, i.e. The reliability of an anchor driven into a rock crack is not considered.

But Denis compares the results of testing the strength of the anchors themselves with the load-bearing capacity of ordinary hooks driven into the rock. At the same time, to prove that he is right, he significantly underestimates these data:

“In the case of classic pitons, the situation does not look much better. A petal-type hook driven into a vertical slot holds no less than 400 kg, and about 800 kg in a horizontal slot. The same applies to channel-type hooks.”

Here are some other figures (Zakharov P.P., Stepenko T.V.-M.: “Physical Education and Sports”, 1989) :):

According to the UIAA commission, a well driven hard hook can withstand a jerk of up to 2000 kg.
The load-bearing capacity of soft hooks is largely determined by friction against the walls of the crack. As the load increases, the hook bends. At the same time, the jerk force works to break out and the hook easily pops out. According to the USSR State Sports Committee

Place of hook insertion “Soft” hooks “Hard” hooks
in a vertical crack 300-1000 kg 500-1500 kg
in a horizontal crack 600-1500 kg 1000-2000 kg

At the same time, what is indicated here is not the mechanical strength of the hook (it is significantly higher than the figures in the table above), but the load-bearing capacity of the hook driven into the crack, which depends not only on the strength of the hook, but also on a number of other factors (rock strength, load vector, correct selection of the hook according to length and thickness, etc.).

To put it mildly, the manipulation of concepts and substitution of results is obvious. The reliability of a well driven rock hook and the reliability of a well driven anchor are comparable. Just like the unreliability of a poorly driven rock hook and the unreliability of a poorly driven anchor.

Well, if we consider the reliability of the anchor in an oblique or horizontal crack, then it will rapidly roll into the abyss after the climber who has fallen off at such a “point”. A quote from Denis’s article is appropriate here: “Insurance of this type can lead to problems in the event of a failure, because a failure, even with a factor far different from factor 2, can lead to the loss of the belay point; it simply will not withstand the load and will fly out of the gap. And if you encounter an area with such terrain that is 20 meters or 50 meters long, then the flight can continue to the station.” Unlike the still reliable ordinary rock hooks hammered into the same cracks.

Well, and the issue of ecology. One more aspect has not been taken into account: preserving the rocks for future generations. Anchors kill rocks. After several hammering into one place, the crack breaks even in granite, and even more so in limestone.

In England, the use of even ordinary hooks is prohibited: only bookmarks. In the Czech Republic, ordinary backfills are prohibited on sandstones: only knotted ones. And we crush rocks with anchors: we have a lot of rocks, don’t mind! Where nature is treated with care, the CLIMMER COMMUNITY prohibits anything that harms the rocks. And where they live according to the principle “After us, even a flood!” - everything is possible there.

The Tyrolean Declaration of Good Style, Article 7, paragraph 7, says “We minimize rock damage by using the most rock-friendly belay techniques.” FAR is a member of the UIAA, and we are obliged to comply with the declaration adopted by the UIAA conference.

PS: I’ll get to Morcheka one of these days and take a photo of the cracks broken by anchors.

PS2: I'm not a saint, I'm a sinner like everyone else. I also use anchors. But I try to do this only when there are no other options.

PS3: Anchors are not a panacea for all ills. And they fly out during breakdowns. Like bookmarks, friends, rock hooks...

Expand discussion thread

Valera, “Don’t agitate me for Soviet power!”: I know the value of anchors and their reliability. But I don’t agree with you about their “destructive ability.” And they no longer destroy rocks when they are driven in, but when they are knocked out, when they are loosened. If you use a puller along the axis of the anchor, then less. But many people don’t use a puller; they prefer to loosen it, crushing the rock with an anchor. Yes, and you can’t always use it. Maybe on your syenites the cracks are destroyed less, but in the Crimea on limestones they crumble a lot. Here is a video (draft, unsuccessful - the rocks are crumbling) of my testing of new Croc anchors:

Working with a puller makes it much easier to pull out anchors and preserves the rock.

Expand discussion thread

Climbing pitons are divided into rock and ice.

That is, they are intended for use on two main forms of mountainous terrain, and in some cases, ice hooks are used on rocks ((ice “carrot” hook).

Ice hooks are divided into those that are driven in - “carrots” and those that are twisted - ice screws.

In turn, rock hooks are divided into:

rock hooks;

bolts;

anchor hooks

An ice auger is a means of insurance on ice terrain. It is a hollow tube with an eye for attaching a carabiner and/or quickdraw on one side and sharp teeth for screwing into the ice on the other.

Ice screws - a little history

Historically, the first means of belay on ice terrain were pitons, which had to be driven into the ice surface. For example, the “carrot”, widespread in the Soviet Union.

Hammering it required not only a large amount of physical labor, but also filigree technique. Because with one awkward blow, the ice could break, and then all the work of driving had to start all over again.

The next stage in the development of safety equipment on ice can be considered “corkscrew” ice pitons. They had a small cross-section and were quite thin. Consequently, they withstood light loads. At the same time, the twisting process remained difficult and dreary.

After corkscrew hooks, the first examples of driven ice screws made from a hollow tube appeared. Such an ice screw had to be driven in a third first, and then the installation process must be completed by screwing it in completely.

And finally, a modern type of ice drill - a hollow tube and sharp teeth at the end. This design allows you to install drills even in the hardest winter ice.

How to choose an ice screw?

So, how do they differ from each other, and how to choose them? Before you buy an ice drill, it’s a good idea to find out the basic characteristics of the tool.

Drill material

Most modern drills are made of steel, since the teeth of the drill must be made of hard material and remain sharp for a long time, “holding an edge.”

True, there are a couple of interesting exceptions to this rule.

Titanium drills They were produced by Soviet industry in huge quantities. They were also made by numerous craftsmen from titanium, which was “obtained” from defense enterprises. Perhaps this is pride in domestic equipment. There are legends that titanium drills served as hard currency when exchanging equipment with foreigners. It was thanks to such exchanges that our climbers acquired imported equipment. The undeniable advantage of such drills is their lighter weight compared to their steel counterparts. However, there is also a drawback - they become dull relatively quickly and do not spin as well into hard ice as modern steel drills.

Ice auger teeth shape

The best drills are made with aggressively angled teeth.

The sharpening of the teeth is also important - drills that are sharpened with an inward direction spin into the ice better.

Surface polishing

The smoother the surface of the drill, the less resistance it will provide when screwing in. This is one of the most difficult tasks in making ice augers.

After all, you need to polish not only the smooth parts, but also the threads, and even the inner surface of the tube. The better the polishing, the better the drill will screw in, and the more expensive it will be.

Ice auger tube shape

The best models of drills are not a tube with parallel walls, but a conical shape. This allows ice chips to pass through the ice drill better, and accordingly, such drills spin better.

Handle for twisting

Most manufacturers offer two modifications of their products:

• with built-in handle
• without handle

Naturally, the handle is much more convenient to work with, especially during difficult climbing. Samples without a handle can be twisted using a special removable handle or without it at all.

However, it is worth noting that this is not very convenient.

Removable ice auger handle

Ice auger length

Drills are produced in various sizes. Each manufacturer has its own. The climber’s assortment should include samples of different lengths, each for its own purposes.

Let's look at the main ones.

Ice screws are long - 20 cm long or more

Well suited for loose summer ice, as well as for organizing an ice eye. In foreign literature, it is usually called “Abalakov firmware” after its inventor, the Soviet climber Vitaly Abalakov. Its essence is to drill counter holes in the ice into which an auxiliary rope is threaded. It is recommended to do this using the largest drill you have. It turns out to be a very reliable attachment point if everything is done correctly.

Ice screws are short - less than 14 cm long

They may be needed in places where the ice layer is very thin and a regular drill begins to rest against the rock before it is fully screwed in.

Also, short drills can be useful on hard winter ice, because... screw them in faster, and they provide quite sufficient strength in such conditions.

Medium drills from 14 to 20 cm

Such ice screws, as a rule, make up the bulk of a climber’s kit, because... are the most versatile.

Ice drill review

In order to help you choose, I suggest considering the best models from manufacturers found on the market.

Ice drill Black Diamond Express

One of the most popular models all over the world. Available in five sizes, each marked with a different handle color: red (10 cm), yellow (13 cm), blue (16 cm), gray (19 cm) and green (22 cm). Very wide range of sizes - easy to choose the right size. Certified for a load of 10 kN.

Ice screw Black Diamond Express - classic design with a comfortable handle for tightening. Has two holes for snapping in a carabiner. The lower one is the main one for attaching the belay, the upper one is auxiliary, it is convenient to hang things (backpack or tools) on it at the belay station.

These augers spin exceptionally well in ice thanks to their shape and comfortable handle. They are also very easy to unscrew. The eyes of these drills are of sufficient size and convenient design. Thanks to the folding handle, it is very convenient to carry on and off the gazebo.

There is also a simplified modification of this model - everything is the same, but without a folding handle. Savings in weight and price in exchange for ease of screwing.

Ice auger Grivel 360

Available in lengths of 12 cm, 16 cm and 20 cm. The handles are color-coded depending on the length. They have an average weight in comparison with analogues.

The eye of the ice drill is very small, which is very helpful when tightening; this drill fits into small depressions and cavities in the ice. At the same time, the hole for the carabiner is large enough, which allows you to snap in two pieces if necessary. In addition, this model has one of the longest screwing handles, thanks to its folding design - this makes the screwing process very easy. In the unfolded position, a very large lever is obtained, which means less effort is required.

The carving has the original reverse shape. Due to this, the drill has a large area of ​​contact with ice. More precisely, during a jerk, a more correct direction of force distribution is created. This ensures greater reliability of fastening in loose ice. It also has a simplified Helix modification without a folding handle.

Ice auger CAMP Radion

Radion ice axes are available in three sizes: 12 cm, 17 cm and 22 cm. They are also color coded depending on the size. And also a sewn-in loop for attaching a carabiner. Due to this, they are slightly heavier than their analogues, but allow you to do without the use of a guy rope. Which, in general, will still lead to weight savings. They don't spin as well in the ice as the Black Diamond or Grivel, but they still do well thanks to the large handle that provides good leverage.

The eye of the ice drill has an additional hole for easy carrying of the drill on the gazebo (if it is attached to the guy, it will hang too low and interfere with movement).

This ice screw is very convenient to start screwing in, because... You can secure it with a guy rope - this will help you not to lose it.

It also has an unusual form of thread sharpening, similar to the Grivel 360 model, which makes it possible to increase the strength of the drill on loose ice.

Ice drill Petzl Laser Speed ​​Light

This is a new, improved version of the Laser model. Available in three sizes: 13 cm, 17 cm and 22 cm. They are color-coded depending on the length. These are some of the lightest drills on the market due to the fact that the tube is made of aluminum alloy. At the same time, the crown is made of steel, the teeth do not become dull for a long time, and fit well into the ice. Due to the small size of the eye, these ice screws are very convenient to carry on a gazebo, and also to install in recesses found on uneven ice surfaces. Incredibly light ice screws without sacrificing ease of screwing into the ice.

Installation of ice drills

Here are some simple rules for installing drills.

First you need to clear the surface of the ice from snow and surface unevenness. The most convenient way to do this is with an ice pick. It is worth choosing a place to install the drill where the ice is the strongest - it has no cracks, air bubbles, voids or melted stones.

There are three main ways to position the drill relative to the slope:

• at right angles
• with a slight downward skew - in the direction of the jerk
• with a slight upward lift - against the direction of the jerk

The latter method has survived to this day from the times when ice hooks were clogged. The latest research suggests the opposite. Modern drills can withstand heavy loads when twisted into ice 10-15 degrees less than perpendicular to the surface of the slope, in other words, in the direction of the probable jerk. However, it is worth noting that the difference in strength is very small - no more than 10%. Therefore, for the convenience of twisting, it is worth recommending the simplest method - at an angle of 90 degrees to the slope.

After installing the ice auger, keep in mind that Under the influence of sunlight, the ice auger heats up and begins to melt out of the ice.. In the bright sun, the drill can melt completely in just 2 hours. Don't be under the illusion that sprinkling ice on your drill will help. Snow easily transmits ultraviolet light and the drill, although a little less, still continues to melt. However, covered with snow, it is no longer visible; we cannot control its condition.

Ice screw care

• Since most modern drills are made of steel, it is worth protecting them from rust. After use, do not throw them away wet, but dry or wipe them.
• Over time, even the best drills become dull. You must remember to sharpen them in time. To do this you will need a good needle file or file. Be careful and careful when sharpening yourself. By changing the sharpening angles of the teeth or changing the shape of the teeth, you can hopelessly ruin an expensive item. You can also purchase a special device for sharpening ice screws. If you are not sure that you can sharpen it correctly, give the drill to professionals for sharpening or ask experienced comrades to teach you how to do it.

• To make it easier to carry ice screws on yourself, we can recommend a special plastic carabiner. It is relatively inexpensive, and you will get a lot of pleasure from using it. In addition, some belay systems have special loops for attaching it. The thing is very useful and convenient. Some drills are sold with special caps that protect the threads from dulling, and all other equipment and clothing from the possibility of damage from the sharp threads of the ice drill. Do not lose them, and for ice screws that are sold without such caps, you can use, for example, a cut plastic hose instead of caps. Or anything else, just use your imagination.

Summarizing all of the above, I would like to note that the main criterion for the quality of an ice drill is how easily it is screwed into the ice. Don’t forget about the convenience of ice screws with a built-in handle and a sewn-in loop that allows you to save the guy. And also, It's better to buy one good ice screw than two bad ones. Don’t skimp on insurance points – sometimes our lives depend on it.

See you in the mountains!

Sergey Leonkin,

Rock pitons necessary for organizing insurance and movement on rocky routes. Hook design It is a wedge with an eye resting on the rock after driving into a crack (Fig. 166).Hooks can be vertical, horizontal and universal. They are made from tough steels with a hardened striker, titanium alloys, molybdenum alloys (the strongest hooks), aluminum alloys (wedges are especially good for wide cracks). Hooks made of alloy alloys are the most promising (Fig. 167).For all rock pitons, the working part tapers towards the end of the hook. This taper makes it easier to drive the hook, ensures its maximum jamming in a narrowing crack, and allows the hook to be loosened when knocked out

Rice. 166. Driving rock pitons:
a - correct position of the hook in the crack; b - bending of the hooks if the crack is shorter than the hook; c - using a loop to shorten the lever when the hook is not fully driven in; d-correct and dangerous (without a soft loop) position of the hook at the bend.

When driving into a crack, the hook, following its configuration, is tightly wedged in it.
U-shaped, 2-shaped hooks, D-shaped boxes are convenient. When driving them into a crack, the cross-section is elastically deformed and provides the necessary thrust and friction. These hooks are made of durable steel. According to the UIAA commission, a well driven hard hook can withstand a jerk of up to 2000 kg.
The load-bearing capacity of soft hooks is largely determined by friction against the walls of the crack. As the load increases, the hook bends. At the same time, the jerk force works to break out and the hook easily pops out. According to the USSR State Sports Committee,

On average, a soft hook can withstand a load of up to 700 kg and very rarely - 1000 kg.
So the future belongs to solid steel hooks.
An indicator of the strength and reliability of a hook hammered into a crack in a rock is the sound produced during impacts: as it is hammered, it should increase in tone, and the tone from the last blow should not be lower than from the previous one. It should be noted that even with a well-singing hook, the strength of anchorage in the rock varies within significant limits. Apparently, adding an external jerk load to the internal forces of a hook-crack system can exceed its strength limit.
In Fig. 168 shows the level of reliability of driven hooks at a given jerk load mode (according to the USSR State Committee for Sports). For example, a snatch of more than 1500 kg can be withstood by only 10% of the hooks. 100% reliability for horizontal hooks is at the level of 500-600 kg, and for vertical ones - at the level of 300 kg.
The greater strength of horizontal hooks is explained by a favorable force pattern - the primary one is the deformation of the wedge, hook

.

Rice. 167. Rock hooks:
a - vertical; b - horizontal; c - shortened; g - combined; d - profile; e - hooks made of high-alloy steels

Rice. 168. Level of reliability of hammered hooks at a given jerk load mode: a - horizontal hooks; b-vertical hooks

Rice. 169. Forces acting on horizontal(a) and vertical (b) hooks

The vertical hook is pulled out of the crack under the action of a jerk; with a rational design of the head, the force of pulling the wedge out of the crack is approximately equal to the jerk force (Fig. 169).
Therefore, when using a hook belay on a plumb line, it is necessary to double the hooks at each belay point or apply etching with a force of no more than 200 kg for horizontal hooks and 100 kg for vertical ones.
Adding to the data in Fig. 168 information on hard hooks, we find out that the range of possible values ​​of the jerk value is very wide.

Soft hooks
Solid hooks
In a vertical crack
300-1000 kg
500-1500 kg
in a horizontal crack
600-1500 kg
1000-2000 kg
Belay equipment on rocks is currently quite well developed. You just need to remember that the hook is the weakest link in the belay chain.
We do not consider bolts in detail, as they are not typical for sport mountaineering. But on technically difficult ascents and first ascents, you should have several bolts. For passing through areas that cannot be overcome by other means, for belaying in dangerous places, for difficult descents and especially during rescue operations, bolts are indispensable.
Tests have shown that steel bolt hooks with a diameter of 8 mm and an installation depth of at least 20 mm provide satisfactory strength; with a transverse direction of the jerk, the pulling force is at least 4-5 tons.

What are ice screws and what are they eaten with?

Don’t skimp on insurance points – sometimes our lives depend on it.

The anchor hook is designed for organizing climbing belay on rocky terrain in vertical and inclined cracks, destroyed or clogged with “mixed” cracks or shallow “blind” cracks and shells. In this case, anchor hooks are produced with the eye and hook leg bent to the right or left to allow driving along the rock spall plane. Initially, these hooks were not hammered in, but inserted into the crack and held in place by the load on them, but then they decided to hammer them in and this is what came of it.

Anchor hooks are available with a blade length of 40, 60 and 80 mm, with a right and left bent eye.

Characteristics:

• Heat treated, steel 30ХГС, 4 mm, galvanized

In all tests, the hook was driven at different depths into a hole simulating a slot and pulled behind the lower hole of the hook.

Small anchor hook test results

When the hook is driven into the slot as much as possible, the hook can withstand loads from 1100 to 1200 kg.

Medium anchor hook test results

With a driving depth of 10 mm. The hook can withstand a load of 1200 kg, after which the hook surface twists.
When driving 20mm. The hook can withstand a load of 1800 kg, after which the hook surface twists.
When the hook is driven into the slot as much as possible, the hook can withstand loads from 2000 to 2100 kg.

Large anchor hook test results

With a driving depth of 10 mm. The hook can withstand a load of 650 kg, after which the hook surface twists.
When driving 20mm. The hook can withstand a load of 900 kg, after which the hook surface twists.
When the hook is driven into the slot as much as possible, the hook can withstand loads from 1600 to 1800 kg.

FIFA rock test results

With a driving depth of 10 mm. Fifa can withstand a load of 400 kg, after which the surface of the fifa twists.
When the fifa is driven into the crack to the maximum extent, the hook can withstand loads from 1750 to 1800 kg.

The tests were carried out on an R-20 explosive testing machine (serial number 1087). Verification certificate No. 1655 is valid until November 5, 2009.

Since in this situation the hole is primary, let’s first talk about punches. Well, everything is clear with a hammer drill - the most common hammer drill from the construction market. It is used in the preparation of climbing paths or when equipping climbing or freeclimbing bolts with bolts. routes. You can’t carry such a bandura with you up the mountain, and it’s not sporty.

When climbing climbs, they use special punches. Any punch is a handle to which a working element, such as a drill, is attached. There are two types of punches - a drill punch and a drill punch. sleeping Adapters are available for sale to make the punch universal.

Let's take a punch rock hammer and, making rotational movements with the punch, we begin to hammer out a hole. This is not an easy matter. It's better to practice in advance! Depending on the size of the bolt, the hardness of the rock and the skill of the climber, the process can take from 10-15 minutes to... well, it depends on your luck. The process is long, but the bolt is the most reliable belay point (up to 25 kN). But before we make a hole, we need to understand what we will drive there. So, bolt hooks differ:

1. by size- both in diameter and length. Diameter can be from 8 to 12 mm, length up to 75 mm;
2. reusable if possible- disposable, reusable, sleeping.

Disposable bolt	Reusable bolt	Sleeping	Shuttle

Disposable bolt gets clogged once and for all, and it is impossible to get it out without dismantling the rock. Reusable bolt(shuttle, shuttle) can be removed from the rock after use.

Stands out against the general background sleeping. As is clear from the photograph, it sleeps on its own - it is part of the bolt hook. It also requires an eye and a bolt. The sleep is the working part of the punch, thanks to the sharp teeth at the end. It sleeps itself - it is disposable, it is not possible to pull it out, but you can take the eyelet with the bolt with you.

Very close in meaning to bolts are glue hooks (anchors, batinox- from Batinox- a model of such a hook from Petzl). These hooks are relatively long metal rods. You also need to make a hole for them. The hooks themselves are set on a special solution that allows them to be held in the rock. Glue hook can withstand up to 50 kN (5000 kgC).

Such pitons are used to equip climbing paths and freeclimbing routes.

In conclusion, a few words about the current historical moment. Now leading athletes are trying to minimize the use of bolts when climbing. The idea is that you can break through any wall, if only you have enough patience! The bolts are sometimes hit stations or if no other methods of organizing insurance and artificial support points in a given area are possible.

1.2. SPECIAL EQUIPMENT AND DEVICES FOR CLIMBERS

That’s why the range of rock pitons is so wide and varied. This is natural, since the conditions for their use are also extremely diverse. And, if the use of modern materials (steel and titanium alloys) completely solves the issues of strength and weight, then the problem of universalizing the design, in relation to cracks of any direction and size, still remains very acute.

Standard rock hooks (Fig. 11) consist of a wedge-shaped steel blade with an eye for threading a carabiner or loop, which, when driven correctly, rests with the eye on the rock. Hooks are divided into vertical (the eye is located in the plane of the blade) and horizontal (the plane of the eye is perpendicular to the plane of the blade) and are intended for cracks of the corresponding orientation. As a rule, hooks are made of tough steel and, when driven into a crack, they easily follow the configuration of the latter and are tightly wedged into it. The hook design must provide high resistance to longitudinal bending.

Attempts to solve the problem of universalization of hooks are carried out not only by widely varying the basic dimensions of standard vertical and horizontal hooks (the number of standard sizes of such hooks cannot but be limited in mass production), but also by creating new, possibly universal designs.

These, for example, include hooks made of thin sheet steel, with a U-, V- and N-shaped cross-section, which elastically deform when driven into a crack and thereby provide sufficient expansion and friction; flat wedges with several (3-4) holes for a carabiner, allowing driving to different depths without compromising reliability; similar box-section hooks; hooks with two eyes in mutually perpendicular planes; with an eye located at an angle of 45° to the plane of the blade; with bent stops and some other modifications of the listed models, shown in Fig. 11. On the blade of many types of hooks, longitudinal grooves or protrusions are milled or stamped, which crumple when driven into a crack and prevent the hook from moving in the plane of the latter.

V. M. Abalakov proposed designs for hooks with an eye that moves on a thread (until it touches the rock surface), as well as hooks that are mechanically wedged in a crack by turning a special handle.

But, no matter how great the practical advantages of all the above listed models, success and safety on rocky routes are decided first

all through their careful preliminary study and skillful selection of pitons in relation to a specific rock texture. In this regard, a wide range of hooks in size and orientation of cracks remains necessary.

Known simplifications are achieved by using wooden prismatic wedges of different sizes, allowing the use of very wide cracks (Fig. 12).

Recently, the so-called terminals - embedded metal parts, in the shape of a multifaceted prism or a truncated pyramid of different sizes, made of light metal, with a sealed loop made of a cord, braid or metal cable (Fig. 13) have become increasingly popular.

Such terminals reliably wedge in cracks of various sizes and configurations and withstand significant vertical forces. Especially universal in this sense are the “self-jamming” cams proposed by V. M. Abalakov. Each of them can “fit” cracks over a very wide range of widths. After use, the cam can be easily removed and is again ready for further use (Fig. 14). Four sizes

Such cams cover a range of crack widths from 18 to 80 mm.

In some cases, the role of a terminal or cam can be performed by one or more knots tied to a loop of cord or braid. The big advantage of embedded devices over driven hooks is the speed of their use - there is no need to waste time hammering in and knocking out the hook. The use of these, as climbers call them, “mortgages” as artificial points of support has largely justified itself, but they must be used for belaying, especially the lower one, with great caution.

In the absence of suitable cracks (monolithic rocks), bolt hooks of various designs can be used, acting on the anchor principle and driven into sockets hollowed out in the rock with a bolt. In the general case, such an expanding (bolt) hook consists of a bushing with longitudinal cuts, an eyelet placed on it under the carabiner, and a core that expands the bushing when driven in (Appendix 7). With the correct combination of socket sizes and hook parts, the friction is so great that the latter does not break out even with significant axial force. The advantages of such a hook are reliability and versatility, the disadvantages are labor intensity and the impossibility of repeated use. The bolt is a steel rod with a carbide cutting bit (usually a winner) at the working end. Sometimes it is equipped with a rubber can to blow out the socket during operation through a channel inside the bolt shaft to remove rock chips and dust. An experienced athlete, using a bolt, spends 3-4 minutes driving the hook (in a convenient place).

The popularity of bolts has now dropped significantly, since the use of such fastening points, the installation of which is possible almost anywhere on any terrain, replaces the emotional and sporting essence of free climbing with craft “metalwork” work. However, the passage of overhanging and poorly dissected sections of rocks, and especially the organization of reliable insurance in these conditions, is unlikely to be possible without bolts.

The desire to reduce the weight of metal equipment sometimes leads to an unjustified reduction in the length and cross-section of hooks (meaning homemade ones). We must not forget that the dynamic loads during a breakdown are very high. The shear strength of the safety hook along dangerous sections should not be less than 1000 kg. As for pull-out efforts, methods for ensuring reliability in this case are outlined in the chapter on organizing insurance.

The range of ice pitons is much narrower, so driving them is possible almost anywhere. Difficulties can arise only in connection with the structure of the ice (loose melting ice or, conversely, brittle sinter ice). The main type of mass-produced ice hook still remains the “Abalakovsky” steel hook of a circular section (Appendix 9) with a barbed body and a turnkey hexagonal head. The figure eight shaped carbine threading eye rotates freely around the axis of the hook and ensures equal reliability when pulled in any direction. Such a hook has two main disadvantages - firstly, it is heavy, and secondly, the driving process itself

and removing the hook is labor-intensive, requires a lot of time and is not always quite successful (sinter ice, for example, breaks off in layers when driven in).

If the first disadvantage can be noticeably compensated by the use of titanium (the weight is reduced by almost 2 times), then eliminating the second requires a fundamental change in the design. In this sense, the most reliable of the proposed models is the so-called Abalakova system ice drill - a tubular steel or titanium (preferably!) rod, with a diameter of 15 mm and a wall thickness of 2.5 mm with appropriate sharpening of the cutting edge and threads on the outer surface. Practice shows that the greatest convenience is provided by a single-start triangular or thrust thread with a height of 1.5 mm and a pitch of 7-8 mm. The length of such a hook ranges from 170-200 mm, the length of the cut part is approximately equal to a third of the total length (Appendix 10).

The hook head is equipped with either a welded loop or a swinging curved eye on a double flat. The cutting edge is shaped like a crown with three or four teeth. With the correct choice of sharpening angles of these teeth, ensuring good grip and low friction, the hook is easily and quickly screwed even into hard and brittle ice, without significant initial axial pressure, and in order to pull it out in the axial direction, a force of about 100 kg is required. With optimal shape and high surface finish, 15-20 seconds is enough to screw in such an ice screw to its entire length without any additional levers (just a finger behind the eye). Ice augers can be successfully used both for belaying and for constructing artificial support points. In addition, it can be used to drill fairly reliable eyes in the ice (see the section on insurance).

Less recognized is the “corkscrew” hook (Appendix 11), the shape and operation of which is clear from the name. Such pitons can only be used to create artificial points of support when climbing; for belaying, their reliability is insufficient.

Climbing rock and ice cliffs using artificial support points led to the emergence of a number of special devices that facilitate movement and ensure safety. For example, to overcome ice plumbs, it is very effective to use L-shaped anchor hooks (Appendix 12), which have a beak driven into the ice and a tail resting on the slope with a hole for hanging a loop. By attaching rope stirrups or ladders to the eye of the tail, with the help of a pair of such hooks you can quickly and confidently overcome ice walls close to plumb lines.

Rice. 11. Rock hooks: a, b, c) horizontal, d, e) vertical, f) box-shaped, h, g) universal.

Rice. 12. Wooden wedge.

Rice. 13. Embedded parts of different models.

Rice. 14. Scheme of operation of a self-jamming eccentric cam.

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Well, we started training. It's time to think about purchasing equipment, because without it, a full-fledged training process is impossible, as well as mountain climbing itself.
Let's get acquainted with the main types of equipment needed for training and climbing, and for the prologue - a small lyrical digression.

Mountaineering is a technical sport where both the speed of the route and your life and health directly depend on the quality and range of equipment! Based on this, it is very important to make the right choice in terms of price and quality. Considering the fact that most beginners do not have unlimited financial resources, the issue of choice becomes very relevant.

Let's start with the main thing. Since we are engaged in mountain climbing, it means that the main element of our equipment is shoes. Nothing will cause as much harm to your health at the initial stage as bad shoes, and this can subsequently result in chronic (!!!) foot injuries, which will impose real restrictions on your hobby. Therefore, choosing shoes is the most important task for a novice climber! In the photo I presented a small evolutionary picture, starting with a single All-Union Central Council of Trade Unions and ending with the now trivial layers. In the foreground are rock shoes, a model for the Mountains, but let's start with the Vibrams.

photo 1. Shoes

The ideal option is to have vibrams for summer and winter, but this is not available to everyone. Universalization is not always a good thing, but here, in principle, the Solomonic solution would be to purchase plastic. Any model, the cheapest one, by the time you get to sports improvement, the first pair will still be worn out, and then, after that, you’ll select what you need, taking into account the experience you’ve gained. Yes, layers are heavier than leather and not as comfortable when walking, but they resist moisture better, it is more comfortable to walk in them on crampons, and they better hold and protect the ankle. Now a line of boots made from artificial materials has appeared; they, of course, are superior to plastas in functionality, but at the same time they are inferior in wear resistance and, as a rule, cost much more. Therefore, in terms of price-quality ratio, the formations are, to begin with, unrivaled.

I try to take boots one and a half sizes larger than mine, try them on with thick socks (wool or thermolight) so as not to hurt my feet on the descent. Sizing is very important, because if the boot is too big, you will fall out of it when walking with crampons. Therefore, when trying on, it is better to ask for crampons in the store and try to stand on the front teeth somewhere, or, as a last resort, try to stand on the very edge of the toe of the shoe on a step to feel how securely your foot is held in it, do not waste time and effort on trying on, in the Mountains this will save you a lot of time and effort, and most importantly - health!

We sorted out the boots, a little about rock shoes. The sample shown in the photo is a specialized model for walking in the Mountains. The rubber does not hold up very well against friction, but due to the tread it allows you to overcome sections of snow on the route without much slipping, they are also not cheap, so they are unlikely to be suitable as a first pair of shoes. For starters, the cheapest samples will also work easily: Kazan, Voronezh, or something from the bourgeoisie. Here you need to accustom your feet to uncomfortable, tight shoes, plus gain experience in climbing in shoes, so that you can choose the next pair yourself to suit your wishes. The shoes must be taken end to end, taking into account the fitting, Kazan stretches very much, the rest are not so flexible. I take shoes that fit true to size, sometimes even larger, because sometimes you have to spend many hours in them, and if there is a little looseness, you can always put a pad between the heel and the shoe to make the toe fit more tightly. These are the workers' and peasants' councils, may the climbing community forgive me.

photo 2. System, Efimovskaya

Now that you've sorted out your shoes, it's a good idea to purchase a “system.” Having tried all the stages of evolution of this type of equipment, I returned to the roots, more precisely to the Efimov system, shown in photo 2. I think that it is especially good for a start. Let's consider all the pros and cons.

Easy to put on, no need to put your feet through
- does not require the use of a chest harness
- does not require circular blocking, you immediately get two points spaced apart in space for attaching the lanyard and safety rope, which is extremely convenient when working on the Mountain
- when hanging equipment on the “system”, shoulder straps prevent the “system” from slipping
- going to the toilet without removing the “system” is as easy as shelling pears

The only real downside is that this “system” is more difficult to size, since the waistband is not adjustable. But against the backdrop of the advantages, this minus, believe me, is not so noticeable.

These “systems” used to be well made by UPI-Sport, now I know about two manufacturers: Ascan and Vento. I liked the Askanov system better. The system must be selected so that the front loops come together easily in assault clothing. It will sag a little on the shirt - that's okay.

photo 3. System, normal

Photo 3 is a current classic. Comfortable lower gazebo. It’s very pleasant to climb in it, it’s quite safe to climb, even without a chest harness, but for mountaineering use it’s not as convenient as the Efimovskaya, especially the economy class models. There are cool gazebos with excellent adjustments, but they are very expensive, and it’s still better to purchase expensive equipment with at least a little walking experience, so that you can really spend money on what you need, and not on what a kind sales consultant is selling .

Once you have purchased the system, invest in carabiners. I won’t start a discussion about where a clutch is needed and where it isn’t, I’ll just describe what I came to after 20 years of mountain climbing, the last five of which I’ve been doing solo. I love the two large branded carabiners with a coupling. One is on the lower system lock. Convenient for attaching additional bells and whistles: trigger guards, additional loops for self-belaying or jumar, and anything else you want to snap into place. Therefore, the carabiner must be large. The second one is for reserve. A couple more small coupling carbines - for the trigger and in reserve. Everything else I have without a clutch. This applies to personal carbines. It’s a good idea for a group to have about five large carabiners with a coupling to organize stations. Yes, under no circumstances take carabiners with a snap-on coupling, unless, of course, you are a masochist! You need to take imported carbines, the price can be found almost at the level of “Manaraga”, but you understand the quality... Coupled ones are quite expensive, but you don’t need to skimp on them, then on the Mountain they will pay for themselves a hundredfold.

About guy ropes. To complete climbing routes, you need to have a set of guy ropes of different lengths. Climbing ropes are too short and will not allow you to effectively bypass the bumps of the terrain. To begin with, it’s a good idea to collect 10 pieces from 30 to 60-70 cm. In principle, you don’t have to spend money on ready-made quickdraws; you can buy inexpensive loops of different lengths and equip them with carabiners. The most economical option: buy slings and tie the loops yourself. Here you need to chase not beauty, but quantity, so it’s not a sin to save money if there are financial restrictions. The main thing is to knit the sling with grapevine or, if it’s a simple counter stitch, the ends need to be stitched so that they don’t come undone.

It seems like everything is there, but something is missing to start the next stage of training - climbing. Oh, where's the rope? What's wrong with the rope? Mammut is good, but a little expensive, so don’t worry, take the Kaliningrad dynamic ten and have fun. In terms of price-quality ratio, this is the best option; it will be easier to force yourself to change it, because no matter how much the rope costs, replacing it is inevitable. For railings, of course, the classics: Tyumen halyard, or Kolomna, or Askan, in principle, “the same eggs,” just try to take one with fine braiding, it is more wear-resistant. Again, if possible, Lanex statics are very good, but this is not critical. So buying rope is another item where you can save money wisely.

To avoid getting hit in the head ahead of time, you will have to purchase a helmet. There are no problems with the models, the quality is approximately the same for all. Only “Cassida” stands apart, but, unfortunately, it is now extremely difficult to find, but if possible, you should take it without hesitation. A helmet, whatever one may say, is a very useful thing, and the stronger it is, the more useful it is.

Gradually we approached the acquisition of the main driving force of mountaineering - jumars and other accessories. This is an expense item on which it is not a sin to spend what you saved earlier. In the photo you can see two types of clamps: the actual jumar and the “droplet”. Ideally, it’s nice to have two jumars and one “drop”. What’s good about a “drop”? She is not swayed by the condition of the rope, snow, ice, she will hold. Plus, it’s quite convenient to use it to secure yourself while rappelling, and after loading it’s much easier to get off it than from the same gripper. Working with it is not as convenient as with a jumar, but Ural-Alpa has models with a handle, although they are very expensive. So if it’s a jumar, then it’s “Petsl”, if it’s a “droplet” it’s titanium from the Ural-Alpa. Please note, this is not advertising, this is natural selection. Well, with the “eight” everything is clear, although with antennae it will be more convenient - it’s easier to fasten to the rope. And on the right in the photo you can see a bauble called Gri-Gri or Grinya. If possible, it would be a very good idea to purchase one, since it greatly simplifies the process of belaying when climbing, and is also very good for descending. The only thing is that it does not tolerate icing, but, in general, it is an extremely useful thing.

Chapter three, part three. Equipment

Now we have everything for climbing, we can start training and selecting iron. What is iron? Iron is everything that helps us move along the route and organize insurance.

Let's start, as usual, from the beginning. Rock hooks. In the photo you can see a large and small box, horizontal, channel, universal petal and a very long horizontal hook. Getting a good set of hooks now is not a problem. Maybe it will be harder with the boxes, and the rest will be the shaft. At the top is the top of evolution - a lifesaver, etc. etc. - anchor hook, a must-purchase item, and in various sizes, in the photo - medium. It’s a good idea to start going out onto the rocks with a set of 10-15 hooks.

Moving higher up the steps, we come to the embedded elements. In the photo you can see stoppers, sunflower seeds (small brass stoppers), friends and fox heads. In general, the world of mortgages is much more extensive. Here again, waste is brewing, because in order to choose the set that you are comfortable working with, it is better to try as many options as possible. I settled on the one shown in the photo. Here I would probably be happy to add only Camalots. These are friends with two axes. Each kamalot covers at least two friend sizes, or even more, an extremely convenient thing, just expensive. You can safely take ours or Khokhlyat’s static bookmarks (stoppers, hexes, etc.), the quality is normal, and the set is much richer than the branded ones. It's more difficult with friends. It is better to have branded ones, but they are extremely expensive. Stregor had good quality, but I can’t say anything now. In principle, you can make the following compromise: since first you need to have as much different equipment as possible, you can buy inexpensive friends, made in the CIS, because they are necessary for training. For training and ascents, four inclusive, they should be quite enough, because there is nowhere to fly on these routes, and with a good flight you will have time to kill yourself on the rocks before you apply a critical load to a dubious friend. You just need to remember to save money for branded hardware in order to achieve A’s.

Now, at the end of the passage about rock iron, a few words about special bells and whistles. An interesting thing is skyhooks (pictured in the center). To spice up the learning process, sometimes it’s a good idea to test the strength of your sphincter by using skyhooks. The sooner you start, the sooner you get used to it. Well, a bolt. The photo shows the Shuttle (reusable, not to be confused with the Challenger) and the usual stationary eight. Bolts are a controversial thing in many ways, but sometimes necessary. The advantage is that you don’t have to buy them yet, learn to bludgeon better on skyhooks - it’s more useful, it develops certain muscles, balance again. For skyhooks (and in general), it’s a good idea to get started in terms of ladders. In the photo, to the right of the punch, are the simplest ladders for hook legs (pictured on the right). There are countless models of ladders, this one is not the most successful, but definitely the most economical, and will do one hundred percent for training. Well, I blabbed about the hooklegs. A thing that is useful from the very beginning, since they can be used both for movement in I.T.O. and as stirrups when walking with clamps along the railings.

Well, what went next was purely boyish mountaineering equipment. Let's return to the ice hooks (pictured on the left). Also an evolutionary line, from titanium to alloy polishing. Here, in terms of price-quality ratio, the Ural-Alps drills are the leaders, but only with a long rod handle! The problem is that their quality can vary noticeably from batch to batch. An almost win-win option is branded drills, almost, because this winter I worked with the absolutely stupid “Grivel” with a short, non-folding handle. The option is as win-win as it is expensive. It’s a good idea to have a dozen 150-170 mm drills for a group and a couple of 220-250 for self-screwing. Choose. The main problem with drills: until you twist them, you won’t know whether you bought the thing or not... Well, and the snow hook (pictured on the right). This, of course, is just one of the modifications. For every firefighter, having a couple or three of these in the group is not bad at all. It doesn’t weigh much, it costs the same, and the shaft can be useful on steep snow.

Another gadget is a “shoulder” for hanging equipment. There are different models: “shoulder”, “bra”, etc. This is also a useful thing, and from the very beginning, but only if you have available funds!

Don't get carried away with accessories, colleagues! At the initial stage, it is much more useful to have an additional set of some hardware than a cool “system”, a climbing backpack and many other useful, but absolutely unnecessary things for a novice climber. Therefore, if you have to choose between the same shoulder and a pair or three of hooks, buy the hooks first!

What would a climber be without an ice axe? But a climber is cool if he has an ice tool (pictured on the left). As practice shows, if you don’t have the money for a branded tool, it’s better to go with a simple ice ax, but not buy our cutters. If you have enough money, take a couple at once. In the photo you can see a typical climbing model of an ice tool. With it you can climb steep ice, rocks and have good safety in the snow. By the way, the length of the handle does not particularly affect the possibility of using an ice tool for organizing belays and self-belays in the snow, it all depends on skill! If the handle is very curved and there is a lot of rubber on it, it will not fit well into firn, but that is a completely different story. Please note that there are many ice climbing tool models available now. With them, of course, it is more convenient to walk on steep ice and rocks, but on snow and firn, due to the cleverly curved handle, they will not be so handy, plus they are, as a rule, more expensive. Therefore, try to choose something more universal, the company does not matter. If the instrument is sold with a thin ice beak, try to buy a spare one for mixed doubles, it is more reliable, and for ice up to 50 degrees it is a good choice, especially in winter.

photo 13. Cats

And a couple of cats will complete the construction of a tough guy image. There are three types in the photo: ice ones, they hold up well on ice, but walking on rocks in them is very horny; universal with stamped, replaceable front teeth (ideal for me), but for starters and for height, a very good option from the bottom. They are also very versatile, only when the teeth are ground down they cannot be replaced. These are my preferences, there are millions of cat models. If you can get the All-Russian Central Council of Trade Unions Ant cats, only new ones, that’s also very good. True, they only last one shift, but they also cost 3-4 times cheaper than branded ones, which last one or two good seasons. And don’t forget: if there are rocks nearby, you will have to wash the crampons on them too, so go ahead and look for antiques!

The only thing that hasn’t caught my attention is the rock fifa, the one next to the rock hammer in photo 12. What are fifas? Tools for moving on ice and rocks. Ice fifa differs from rock fifa only in configuration, the meaning is the same. Climbing fifes, just like skyhooks, can perfectly diversify training on the rocks. It’s not worth taking them to the Mountains to the level of good fives, but getting used to them on the rocks will be very useful. I myself learned to climb rocks on Aksu in fifa, I can’t say that I didn’t like it, but my comrades, in my opinion, didn’t really like it.

What can I say about ice FIFA? I'm not a fan of them. Yes, on bare ice they, with the right angle of attack, provide a significant gain in time and confidence when passing the route in the initial stages, because walking on ice with ice tools requires much more refined technique, but by immediately standing on fifas, you deprive yourself of the opportunity learn to walk on ice, feel it and enjoy owning this most interesting type of mountainous terrain. The choice is yours.

Well, I’ve covered everything that would be nice to start with. Everything related to clothing is in the next part.